Rediscovering Istanbul

In May 2024, together with my parents, I went for a 3 day trip to Istanbul. This trip marked my first return to the city since living in Turkey as a child. The place had existed only in my imagination ever since, and now it was time to confront those memories and see it anew. I took my parents along to make it a family journey, giving us a chance to reminisce about the good old days.

On the day I arrived, the weather was cold and rainy. From the airport, I headed straight to the hotel. After checking in, I went for a walk around Beşiktaş. It's a lively neighborhood full of stores and restaurants, but the architecture felt chaotic and disorganized, making the area seem strange and unfamiliar. The gloomy weather didn't help.

Later that day, my parents joined me, and we went to a nearby restaurant that came highly recommended. It was called Aqua, located in the nearby Four Seasons hotel. The service was impeccable, and the waterfront setting was breathtaking. The food was tasty, though the menu was more international than Turkish. Overall, the experience felt overly upscale. While I wasn't disappointed, it reminded me that I prefer simpler settings with a stronger sense of local character.

The next day was supposed to be sunny. When I woke up, the sky was still heavy with clouds, but the sun made a few brief appearances. I started the morning in the hotel's basement gym. By the time I returned to my room, the sky had cleared, and the weather was looking much better.

The breakfast at the hotel was excellent—a full Turkish spread with cheese, olives, "simit" (sesame-covered bagels), "sucuk" (Turkish sausage) and much more. The meal brought back memories of childhood vacations.

The dining room was packed. Half the guests were older, Western-looking travelers. I couldn't help but wonder: is it mostly retirees who travel in the West because young people are too busy or lack the money? Or perhaps younger travelers just prefer trendier destinations? Interestingly, many of the younger guests were Turkish or from other Middle Eastern countries. Unlike the Westerners in jeans and t-shirts, these guests were far better dressed. Their elegance gave them an air of mystery, making them much more interesting to observe.

Later, we visited an old friend of my father's, a retired diplomat living in a quiet, picturesque neighborhood along the Bosphorus. The area offered stunning views of the strait. We enjoyed delicious snacks and plenty of tea while discussing politics and world affairs. It was fascinating to hear his thoughts on Turkey's relationship with the EU, President Erdoğan's leadership, and the situation in the Middle East, especially the ongoing war in Gaza.

Before leaving, a painting on the wall attracted my attention. It was a stylized panorama of Istanbul. The host told me the artists name is Devrim Erbil, a prominent Turkish painter.

Beyoğlu

We started sightseeing in the central disctrict of Beyoğlu, around Taksim Square and then walked along Istiklal Street, the main commercial thoroughfare. Much like my first walk around Beşiktaş, Istiklal left me with mixed feelings. It was crowded and full of big chain stores, not particularly unique or beautiful. However, the side streets revealed charming restaurants, pastry shops, and altogether more interesting sights.

Unexpectedly, we stumbled upon a gallery showing Devrim Erbil's work, the same artist I'd seen earlier at my father's friend's house. We decided to visit. The gallery's curator and owner greeted us warmly and gave us a tour which made the experience more special. The artwork was more expensive than I had anticipated, but it made sense given that his works are part of mamy museum collections.

That evening, we dined at a restaurant called Hodan, recommended by our travel agency. Hidden two stories below street level in an old building on a steep hill, the space had once been a girls boarding school. The chef and owner, Çiğdem Seferoğlu, is a rising culinary star who transformed the space into a chic yet cozy restaurant. We enjoyed a tasting menu paired with Turkish wines, with each dish rooted in local culinary traditions. The chef stopped by our table several times to explain the dishes, which added a personal touch to the experience. Leaving the restaurant that night, I felt my impression of the city shifting positively.

Fatih

The next day began with a guided street food tour. I didn't know what to expect, but it turned out to be incredible. Our guide, Uğur, took us to hidden gems I would never have discovered on my own. The tour started at the Egyptian Bazaar, a tightly packed space filled with shops selling sweets, spices, and souvenirs. I loved the atmosphere and felt like I'd found the Istanbul I was searching for.

After we left the bazaar, we embarked on a culinary journey thought the old part of the city, visting many small bars, restaurants and coffee shops that were out of the way of the main tourist attractions.

As we were waking from one spot to another, tasting delicious speciality dishes, on the way we stopped to see a couple of mosques and walked around the Valens Aqueduct, a Byzantine-era landmark and something I'd been eager to see. The weather was perfect that day.

Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque

After the food tour, my parents returned to the hotel. I decided to explore further and walked to the esplanade near Hagia Sophia. The line to visit it was too long, so I opted for the nearby Sultan Ahmed Mosque (better known as the "Blue Mosque") where the admission is free and open to the public.

Inside the Blue Mosque, as in most other mosques, visitors are required to take off their shoes before entering. The floor are typically carpeted whic significantly dampens the noise. It makes the space feel cozy and serene despite a large crowd. It felt so welcoming that I spent an hour just sitting there, looking around and enjoying the moment.

I continued my walk, going through the old Byzantine hippodrome to a viewpoint at the spot where the Golden Horn meets the Bosphorus. People were relaxing on the lawn while others were fishing by the shore. As I was walking, I wasn't thinking about anything particular, just fully immersed in the surroundings. I felt a deep connection to the place and my past.

From there, I took a boat bus along the Bosphorus to Ortaköy, a lively neighborhood with bars, restaurants, and shops. I visited the Büyük Mecidiye Mosque, which was quiet and beautifully illuminated by the late afternoon sun. On my way back to the hotel, I wandered through side streets photographing stray cats—the true landlords of Istanbul.

Polonezköy

The next day, we traveled to Polonezköy, a village 30 kilometers outside Istanbul originally founded by Polish immigrants in XIX century ("Polonezköy" means "Polish village"). My father has strong ties to the place, having visited it since the 1970s. Nestled in green hills, it's a serene getaway.

We met family friends who own a hotel and restaurant there. They took us on a tour of the town, including the Polish Catholic church, cemetery, and a small museum, before inviting us for lunch. The visit was nostalgic, filled with memories and stories about old friends long gone.

We returned to the city in the afternoon. We took the subway, which was clean and fast yet suspiciously empty in such a crowded city. We revisited the Egyptian Bazaar to buy some souvenirs. Typically indecisive and prone to overthinking when choosing gifts, this time I was determined to act quickly and efficiently, so I went ahead and bought painted tiles similar to what I'd seen in a book about Istanbul. When making the purchase I have my longest conversation in Turkish to date with the shopkeeper, which was very fun and satisfying.

Arnavutköy

That evening, we took the boat bus further up the Bosphorus to Arnavutköy, a charming little town north of the first bridge. We had a simple meal at a small, traditional restaurant savoring local beer and enjoying the scenery. It was a perfect way to spend our last afternoon in town.

On the way back, we took a crowded bus. It was at that moment I finally felt "at home." Familiarity with the city replaced the initial strangeness, and I wished I could stay longer. That night, I returned to Beşiktaş for a one final walk through its narrow streets. This time, the neighborhood felt cozy and welcoming, a stark contrast to my first impressions just a few days earlier.

Postscriptum: stray cats and dogs

As a final note, I just wanrted to mention all the stray dogs and cats living in the city. You will encounter them everywhere, they are typically well fed and quite relaxed. It is estimeted that there a over half a million feral cats and dogs in the city! It truly feels like Istanbul belong to them.