Paris and the Côte d'Azur, July 2024

In July 2024, I went to France with my daughter Amelia. She had been learning French in school, so it was a chance for her to practice the language and get a feel for the culture. For me, it was about revisiting a place I once lived in as a teenager.

We started our trip in Paris (of course). I used to live there when I was her age and went to high school in the city. Since then, I've been back many times, so I know it well, but this time I was especially keen to avoid the main landmarks and focus more on the city itself.

After Paris, we decided to go bask in the sun on the Côte d'Azur for a few days.

Overall, I wanted to balance the trip so we could see some iconic places, but still leave space for spontaneity, walking through unfamiliar neighborhoods, and sitting in cafés with no particular agenda.

Paris

Paris has a robust public transportation system, including the metro, buses & taxis, but we opted for the city bikes. It's by far the best way to explore the city, though not for the faint-hearted, as the traffic on the streets - both bikes and cars - can be crazy and no one seems to follow any rules. Still, if you like a bit of adventure, I definitely recommend this mode of transportation.

We skipped most of the usual tourist spots and focused on places that felt just as Parisian but less crowded. Rather than the Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe, we visited the Opéra Garnier and the Panthéon. We traded the Louvre for the Fondation Louis Vuitton and smaller galleries in the Marais, and spent a lot of time in the Luxembourg Gardens instead of walking the Champs-Élysées.

I wanted my daughter to experience Paris in a way that wasn't just about being a tourist. One day, we skipped the obvious brasseries and ended up at a small Berber place serving tagine and couscous. Another evening, we found a tiny bistro (they only had three tables!) serving classic French dishes like the "confit de canard". For even more contrast, one morning we had breakfast at a vegan café that felt more like a bit of California - with avocados everywhere - in the heart of the 6th arrondissement.

We spent time in bookstores and wandered through local markets, just getting a feel for everyday life in the city. I even went running in a nearby park almost every day. In the afternoons, we would often stop at a café for a drink, a bit of cheese or pastry... and some people watching.

Finally, we saw a lot of art, but as previously planned, we skipped most famous museums and instead visited smaller galleries and exhibitions. The Fondation Louis Vuitton was a highlight, with its stunning glass roof and collection of contemporary art. On another day, we went on a guide tour of art workshops and galleries around the Marais district.

Côte d'Azur

After Paris, we traveled south to the Côte d'Azur. I keep coming back for the colors, the deep blue of the sky, the turquoise of the Mediterranean, the warm sandy tones of the old buildings. But I also love the artistic and historical layers of this region.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence was one of our first stops, a town where artists like Matisse and Picasso once spent time. We visited the Fondation Maeght, a fantastic gallery with works by Joan Miró and others. The town itself is very charming, perched on a hill with fantastic views of the surrounding hills and the coast.

Another highlight was the Musée Océanographique in Monaco, set dramatically on a cliffside above the sea. I hadn't realized how deeply involved the Grimaldi family (the ruling family of Monaco) was in ocean conservation - Jacques Cousteau himself was once the director.

Monaco is tiny, so you can walk across the country (!) in just a few hours. I recommend the old town, where the museum is located. The more modern area, Monte Carlo, is very posh and, while undoubtedly beautiful, can feel a bit boring.

One of the most unexpected joys of our trip was Île Sainte-Marguerite, a small island just off the coast of Cannes. Initially, I had planned for just a short visit, but we loved it so much that we returned three times, spending half a day each time. There were no major attractions—just quiet nature, shaded walking trails, and small coves where my daughter swam in the sea while I went for walks or jogged beneath the trees. It was a place free from distractions. The sound of cicadas filled the air, and as I sat reading a book about Mediterranean history - I couldn't imagine a better setting.

From the island, we could see Cannes across the water. The city served as our base for exploring the region, and we enjoyed wandering through its old town and along the Croisette where most of the hotels and beaches are located.

We were fortunate to be in Cannes on the 14 Juillet, France's national holiday. The celebration was spectacular!

We also took a day trip to the Gorges du Verdon, often called the "Grand Canyon of Europe." It has the same dramatic scale, but feels very different - greener, calmer, with turquoise water cutting through limestone cliffs.

For me, this trip was about sharing a place that means a lot to me, but experiencing it from different angles. I had my own history with France, while she came in with fresh curiosity and a bit of the language she had learned in school.

What I liked most was how natural it felt. We were both enjoying the same place, but for different reasons, and that made the experience richer.